Weekend Treat, Salmon and Pouilly-Fuisse

The meal is a bit of a treat, though a fairly frequent one. Salmon is baked in a crust of puff pastry with chopped fennel, crème fraiche, chervil and spring onions (or this time chives because they, like the chervil, are fresh from the garden). Lest this is too rich some sharp spinach is a good balancer. I have to admit that I’m a sucker for almost anything in a pastry crust and this is one of the best. The pastry stops the salmon being overcooked and the fennel and herbs cut down its potential oiliness. Lovely.
This needs a wine that is fairly intense and structured. A lot of good (white) Burgundies would do the trick. I chose one from the Maconnais, a Pouilly-Fuisse, Domaine de la Soufrandise, Vieilles Vignes 2007 that I had bought in bond from the Wine Society. The Society described it as well balanced, 1/3 barrel-fermented, in a rich style, but from a fresh vintage. It was recommended for drinking last year and this, so it should now be in its prime.
The bouquet was wonderful, classic ripe Burgundian chardonnay, and tasted alone it was very together – fruity and structured – and long. With the meal it seemed a little lighter and softer; good but slightly disappointing at the price (it cost £16.54 a bottle and that was before the fall in the pound). It would be fine with a less intense dish, something plainer and lighter than this rich parcel of salmon which frankly needed a wine with more acidity. I’ll make a note of that for the last two bottles – another reason for keeping a cellar book (or spreadsheet).

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